INSTALLING PAPEROCK

STEP 1: Tools required for installation

• Circular saw (with carbide-tipped blade)
• Router (with solid carbide-tipped bits)
• Jigsaw (with extra blades)
• Hole saw (size 1¾")
• Cordless drill and drill bits
• Measuring tape
• Level
• Caulk gun
• Hot glue gun with glue
• Adhesives
• Orbital sander with an assortment of sandpaper grits (80 to 240) and non-woven pads
• Towels (blue paper shop towels work well and/or cloth)
• Masking tape
• Adhesive blocks
• Sawhorses, fabrication tables
• Straight edge and radius guides
• Finish of choice appropriate for wood surfaces

STEP 2: Preparing your panel

Look at both sides of the panel to determine if there is a preferred side for the top.

If seams will be necessary, determine where they will be.

Sometimes there is a natural "crown" in the material. This is not a problem. Make sure it faces UP and that the ends come in contact with the cabinet framing as shown in the image.

STEP 3: Transfering template to the panel

Locate the best position on the panel to make optimum use of the material.

Place template on panel

Trace template onto panel and mark any internal cut-outs

STEP 4: Mark sink/stove cut-outs and faucet holes on panel

Carefully position sink/stove templates on panel and draw outline

Check number of faucet holes and diameter of each; typically most faucet holes are 1⅜ in diameter

Mark properly in relation to sink template

STEP 5: Recheck all measurements

Recheck all measurements for accuracy before cutting. "Measure three times; cut once" as the saying goes!

Before using any power tools, refer to the manufacturer's safety recommendations. Always wear eye protection.

STEP 6: Cutting

CUTTING TIP: masking tape on the saw base plate will help prevent scratching

Make a rough-cut of the countertop with a circular saw (try to stay ⅛" outside of the traced line)

A jig-saw can be used for tight spaces and curves, make sure cut stays perpendicular to the panel surface

Make a clean-up cut precisely to the traced line with a router (utilise guides to ensure clean, straight cuts and smooth curves)

For outside radius corners an orbital sander or router (with guide) works well

For inside radius corners a router with radius guide is required to make a smooth, uniform radius cut

Using a hole-saw, drill out the desired faucet holes

STEP 7: Pre-mount countertops

Lay countertops on cabinet bases and check for proper fit and alignment

Ensure all cut outs are in correct position, all overhangs are consistent and tops are resting level on cabinet bases

STEP 8: Edge Detailing

Ensure that the desired edge finish is not extremely rough (if so, perform a preliminary sanding of the edge with 80 to 180 grit sandpaper depending on severity of roughness)

Using a profile bit with a guide bearing, route the desired edge detail into the panel's edge (if desired edge detail requires the removal of a considerable amount of material, utilise 'step-cuts' to maintain a better edge and prevent burning)

STEP 9: Seaming (if required)

Biscuit seaming option A
Dry-fit seam pieces

Perform a 'mirror cut'

Mark necessary biscuit locations

Cut biscuit grooves

Hot glue four 'hold-down' blocks about 8" from seam on both sides

Apply two-part epoxy to biscuits and to both seam edges

Using two bar clamps, gently tighten seam together

After adhesive is slightly set-up, peel off the excess from the top surface

Remove first clamp and clean surface with acetone and replace clamp

Repeat previous step for remaining clamp

With clamps in place, allow adhesive to cure following manufacturer's directions

Mechanical fastener seaming option B
Dry-fit seam pieces upside-down

Using a 'plunge' router, set the maximum depth to ½ of the overall thickness of the panel. Route "T" shaped grooves every four inches

Repeat previous step on second seam piece so that pieces are mirror images

Apply adhesive to both seam pieces

Gently tighten seam pieces together with clamps

Insert mechanical fasteners into their respective grooves

Ensure that the pieces are lined up correctly, then tighten fasteners

After adhesive is slightly set-up, peel off the excess from the top surface

Remove first clamp and clean surface with acetone and replace clamp

Repeat previous step for remaining clamp

With clamps in place, allow adhesive to cure following manufacturer's directions

Turn countertops upside down

Locate and mark centre point of both the sink and the cutout

Place sink upside down on the underside of the countertop and match up the two centre marks, mark positions for pre-drilled mounting holes

Remove sink

Pre-drill holes in underside of countertop at specific mounting screw locations (use tape or a drill stop on your carbide-tipped bit to prevent drill-through)

Apply a bead of silicone adhesive to the underside edge of the sink cutout

Place sink back on the countertop and match up the two centre marks

Lightly insert screws into each pre-drilled mounting hole

Turn countertop right side up

Lightly tap the sink until it is in exact desired location (consistent reveal)

Tighten all mounting screws

Wipe away excess adhesive

STEP 11: Surface preparation

Option A
This option will maintain Paperock's and PaperStone's® natural micro-textured surface (Photo 1)

Option B
This option will produce a smoother surface (Photo 2)

Sand all exposed edges with a 220/240 grit sandpaper

Finish with a maroon non-woven pad

STEP 12: Attach countertops

Place countertops on cabinets

Locate necessary anchor screw locations

Pre-drill holes in underside of countertop at specific anchor screw locations (use tape or a drill stop on your carbide-tipped bit to prevent drill-through)

Pre-drill holes in cabinet frame/supports at specific anchor screw locations (use larger bit here)

Working with one section at a time, lift the countertop off the cabinet base and apply a thin bead of silicone adhesive to the cabinet base. Carefully lower the countertop back onto cabinet base, repeat this step as necessary to apply adhesive to other areas of the cabinet base (if possible, remove the entire countertop and apply a bead of adhesive on the top edge of all cabinet bases for added strength)

Insert mounting screws into each anchor location (correct screw diameter and length)

Wipe away excess adhesive

Pre-mount backsplashes (check to ensure there are no gaps between countertop and backsplash or wall and backsplash) (scribing of the wall side of the backsplash is possible, but it can be a challenge)

Remove backsplashes

Mark correct length and cut to size (45º/butt cut)

Apply a thin bead of silicone adhesive to underside and back of backsplash (hot glue if not using a fast- setting epoxy)

Mount backsplash on top

Clean any excess adhesive

Allow adhesive to cure according to manufacturer's instructions

Clean all exposed surfaces with a soft wet cloth

Allow time for surface to dry

If backsplash is installed, use masking tape to assure clean, crisp caulk lines, then apply a bead of caulk to the seam where the backsplash meets the countertop, where the backsplash meets the wall and around the sink

After caulk has been applied, remove masking tape guides

When caulk is totally cured, apply wood finish of choice

Buff aggressively with clean, dry cloths

Prior to use, allow to dry for at least 8 hours or follow manufacturer's instructions

Download a copy of Paperock's Material Safety Data Sheet

Instructions and images from Green Countertops Direct