INSTALLING PAPEROCK
Read our step by step instructions below on how to install our products or click a link below to go to the step you are up to:
Step 1: Tools
Step 2: Preparing
Step 3: Transfering template to the panel
Step 4: Mark cut-outs
Step 5: Recheck all measurements
Step 6: Cutting
Step 7: Pre-mount countertops
Step 8: Edge Detailing
Step 9: Seaming
Step 10: Install undermount sink
Step 11: Surface preparation
Step 12: Attach countertops
Step 13: Backsplashes
Step 14: Finishing
Material Safety Data Sheet


- Circular saw (with carbide-tipped blade)
- Router (with solid carbide-tipped bits)
- Jigsaw (with extra blades)
- Hole saw (size 1¾")
- Cordless drill and drill bits
- Measuring tape
- Level
- Caulk gun
- Hot glue gun with glue
- Adhesives
- Orbital sander with an assortment of sandpaper grits (80 to 240) and non-woven pads
- Towels (blue paper shop towels work well and/or cloth)
- Masking tape
- Adhesive blocks
- Sawhorses, fabrication tables
- Straight edge and radius guides
- Finish of choice appropriate for wood surfaces


Look at both sides of the panel to determine if there is a preferred side for the top.
If seams will be necessary, determine where they will be.
Sometimes there is a natural "crown" in the material. This is not a problem. Make sure it faces UP and that the ends come in contact with the cabinet framing as shown in the image.





Locate the best position on the panel to make optimum use of the material.
Place template on panel
Trace template onto panel and mark any internal cut-outs




Carefully position sink/stove templates on panel and draw outline
Check number of faucet holes and diameter of each; typically most faucet holes are 1⅜ in diameter
Mark properly in relation to sink template

Recheck all measurements for accuracy before cutting. "Measure three times; cut once" as the saying goes!
Before using any power tools, refer to the manufacturer's safety recommendations. Always wear eye protection.






CUTTING TIP: masking tape on the saw base plate will help prevent scratching
Make a rough-cut of the countertop with a circular saw (try to stay ⅛" outside of the traced line)
A jig-saw can be used for tight spaces and curves, make sure cut stays perpendicular to the panel surface
Make a clean-up cut precisely to the traced line with a router (utilise guides to ensure clean, straight cuts and smooth curves)
For outside radius corners an orbital sander or router (with guide) works well
For inside radius corners a router with radius guide is required to make a smooth, uniform radius cut
Using a hole-saw, drill out the desired faucet holes


Lay countertops on cabinet bases and check for proper fit and alignment
Ensure all cut outs are in correct position, all overhangs are consistent and tops are resting level on cabinet bases


Ensure that the desired edge finish is not extremely rough (if so, perform a preliminary sanding of the edge with 80 to 180 grit sandpaper depending on severity of roughness)
Using a profile bit with a guide bearing, route the desired edge detail into the panel's edge (if desired edge detail requires the removal of a considerable amount of material, utilise 'step-cuts' to maintain a better edge and prevent burning)




Biscuit seaming option A
Dry-fit seam pieces
Perform a 'mirror cut'
Mark necessary biscuit locations
Cut biscuit grooves
Hot glue four 'hold-down' blocks about 8" from seam on both sides
Apply two-part epoxy to biscuits and to both seam edges
Using two bar clamps, gently tighten seam together
After adhesive is slightly set-up, peel off the excess from the top surface
Remove first clamp and clean surface with acetone and replace clamp
Repeat previous step for remaining clamp
With clamps in place, allow adhesive to cure following manufacturer's directions
Mechanical fastener seaming option B
Dry-fit seam pieces upside-down
Using a 'plunge' router, set the maximum depth to ½ of the overall thickness of the panel. Route "T" shaped grooves every four inches
Repeat previous step on second seam piece so that pieces are mirror images
Apply adhesive to both seam pieces
Gently tighten seam pieces together with clamps
Insert mechanical fasteners into their respective grooves
Ensure that the pieces are lined up correctly, then tighten fasteners
After adhesive is slightly set-up, peel off the excess from the top surface
Remove first clamp and clean surface with acetone and replace clamp
Repeat previous step for remaining clamp
With clamps in place, allow adhesive to cure following manufacturer's directions

STEP 10: Install undermount sink
Turn countertops upside down
Locate and mark centre point of both the sink and the cutout
Place sink upside down on the underside of the countertop and match up the two centre marks, mark positions for pre-drilled mounting holes
Remove sink
Pre-drill holes in underside of countertop at specific mounting screw locations (use tape or a drill stop on your carbide-tipped bit to prevent drill-through)
Apply a bead of silicone adhesive to the underside edge of the sink cutout
Place sink back on the countertop and match up the two centre marks
Lightly insert screws into each pre-drilled mounting hole
Turn countertop right side up
Lightly tap the sink until it is in exact desired location (consistent reveal)
Tighten all mounting screws
Wipe away excess adhesive



Option A
This option will maintain Paperock's and PaperStone's® natural micro-textured surface (Photo 1)
Sand all exposed edges with a non-woven pad to achieve an even surface treatment
Option B
This option will produce a smoother surface (Photo 2)
Sand all exposed edges with a 220/240 grit sandpaper
NOTE: Depending on condition of top surface, sand with coarsest required grit to remove rub marks/scratches then work up to 220/240 grit sandpaper
Finish with a maroon non-woven pad




Place countertops on cabinets
Locate necessary anchor screw locations
Pre-drill holes in underside of countertop at specific anchor screw locations (use tape or a drill stop on your carbide-tipped bit to prevent drill-through)
Pre-drill holes in cabinet frame/supports at specific anchor screw locations (use larger bit here)
Working with one section at a time, lift the countertop off the cabinet base and apply a thin bead of silicone adhesive to the cabinet base. Carefully lower the countertop back onto cabinet base, repeat this step as necessary to apply adhesive to other areas of the cabinet base (if possible, remove the entire countertop and apply a bead of adhesive on the top edge of all cabinet bases for added strength)
Insert mounting screws into each anchor location (correct screw diameter and length)
Wipe away excess adhesive

STEP 13: Backsplashes (optional)
Pre-mount backsplashes (check to ensure there are no gaps between countertop and backsplash or wall and backsplash) (scribing of the wall side of the backsplash is possible, but it can be a challenge)
Remove backsplashes
Mark correct length and cut to size (45º/butt cut)
Apply a thin bead of silicone adhesive to underside and back of backsplash (hot glue if not using a fast- setting epoxy)
Mount backsplash on top
Clean any excess adhesive
Allow adhesive to cure according to manufacturer's instructions

STEP 14: Finishing the countertops
Clean all exposed surfaces with a soft wet cloth
Allow time for surface to dry
If backsplash is installed, use masking tape to assure clean, crisp caulk lines, then apply a bead of caulk to the seam where the backsplash meets the countertop, where the backsplash meets the wall and around the sink
After caulk has been applied, remove masking tape guides
When caulk is totally cured, apply wood finish of choice
Buff aggressively with clean, dry cloths
Prior to use, allow to dry for at least 8 hours or follow manufacturer's instructions

Material Safety Data Sheet
Download a copy of Paperock's Material Safety Data Sheet

Instructions and images from Green Countertops Direct
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